A few weeks ago I decided to book a short weekend trip out to the San Francisco Bay area. Air fares were cheap. Most airlines were offering double elite qualifying miles. And, work was pretty busy and stressful.
I’m now on the plane sadly heading back from the Bay Area to Washington, DC. I had a really fun and relaxing weekend visiting wineries in Napa and hanging out with friends in the South Bay.
As I mentioned in a previous post, wine is a new hobby of mine. I’ve been trying out lots of different wines, trying to learn what I like and to begin building a collection. I even ended up buying a $1300 wine refrigerator a few months ago that holds over 100 bottles and am already halfway to filling it up.
I’ve been out to the Bay Area numerous times but have never made it up to Napa Valley. With the new hobby, I really wanted to go this time. But, with so many wineries it was hard to figure out where to visit.
I decided to focus on old school wineries and organic/biodynamic wineries. I definitely prefer the balanced and elegant taste of old school, Old World-style wines over the hit-you-over-the-head, overoaked hammer of most “popular” California wines. Also, I’ve also recently become interested in organic and biodynmic wines because of an Oregonian pinot noir that I recently tasted.

After picking up a renting car at SFO and hooking up my new GPS system, I rushed to Frog’s Leap, where I had reserved a tasting tour. Frog’s Leap is in the Rutherford area of Napa and is known for being longtime advocates of using organic farming techniques. The winery and surrounding vineyards were beautiful. The tour was quite interesting, and our guide poured us wines along the way. I liked their philosophy about being good stewards of the land. Plus, the tour and tasting was free, which is a rarity in the overly commercialized Napa Valley. I truly enjoyed the experience and would definitely recommend this to everyone.

My next step was Mayacamas, which was way off the beaten path. The winery is up on Mount Veeder in the Mayacamas mountains and requires a long mountain drive, including on a dirt road for the last mile or so. But, it was worth it. Mayacamas has been around for decades. The current owner and winemaker has been making wines in the same style since the late 1960s, without regard to passing fads or trends. I was one of only three people for their afternoon tour (reservations required). It was nice to get a personal tour and a taste of some honestly good wines. I will likely order some online after I get back to DC.

The third stop on my adventure was Robert Sinskey in the Stag’s Leap District. Robert Sinskey is a producer that uses biodynamic grapes. Another notable feature about the winery is that it is big on the notion that wine should be drunk with good food. So, the winery’s regular $20 tasting includes freshly prepared food from the winery’s chef that is supposed to match the wines being poured that day. The winery produces many pinot noirs from their estate in Los Caneros, further south in Napa, as well as some other varietals and blends. The pinots that I tried were good, but definitely in the California style that I’m not that big on. The cabernet sauvignoon blend and the cabernet franc were excellent, though. Because $15 of the tasting fee goes torward purchases, I bought a couple of bottles to take home.

My final winery stop was Clos du Val, down the road in the Stag’s Leap District. Like Mayacamas, this is another old winery that has been famous since the 1970s. I paid $20 to try their reserve tasting, which included their flagship cabernet sauvignon from the Stag’s Leap Distrct. The wine had good structure but was definitely too young to drink (I think it was a 2004), just a mouthful of tanins. I might have bought some wine from there to take home if it weren’t for the obnoxious guy pouring the wines. He asked me where I was from. I replied that I was from the DC area, and he said, “DC? District of Crooks?” He then proceeded to unload all his right-wing political views. Sigh. What a loser. Needless to say, I left quickly without any purchases.

After hitting up the wineries, I made my way to Yountville, where I had dinner reservations. My budget and short lead time on the trip could not support a visit to French Laundry. I thought about going to Bouchon, which is owned by the same guy. But, to continue on my contrarian tour, I settled on Bistro Jeanty, another well-known restaurant that was a better value and less prententious.

The food and service at Bistro Jeanty was fantastic. I agree with all the reviews, the tomato soup served in a pastry puff is amazing comfort food that really hit the spot. I also had the coq au vin and the chocolate mousse creme brulee, which were also good (but the tomato soup was clearly superior). The only disappointment was the wine I choose. Instead of going with my instinct to order a French wine in a French restaurant, I convinved myself to order a half bottle of a merlot from Napa. It turned out to be one of the stereotypical Napa reds that are close to 15% alcohol and just overpowered the food.

I stayed the night up in Napa and was really glad to have done so. I had left my condo for the airport at 4:30am Eastern Time, which was 1:30am Pacific Time. I did catch some sleep on the plane (I upgraded to First Class), but I was exhausted by the time I finished dinner around 8:00pm or so. I went to bed early and good a decent night’s sleep.
The next day I left Napa around mid-morning and headed to Palo Alto. I met up with WS, an old friend from Cleveland that went to Stanford and now works in the area. It was nice to catch up over some brunch.

After brunch, I headed down to BH’s place in San Jose. I dropped off my stuff in his apartment. Then, he and his wife took me to Ridge Winery up in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Ridge is another famous, old school style winery that I wanted to visit. It did not disappoint. The wines there were amazing. I particularly liked the Geyserville Zinfandel and the Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon.
Because BH knew our pourer, we also got a special treat. We were able to sample a glass of a 1978 cabernet that the staff opened to celebrate one of their birthdays. The wine was so smooth and delicious. I actually contemplated buying a half bottle of the 1978 Monte Bello for $200 (1978 is my birth year) but instead got a bottle of the 2004 Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon for $20. I would love to have tried the 1978 Monte Bello but it was just a tad bit too much. The 2004 Santa Cruz was pretty good, though.
We had a low-key dinner at Gochi, a Japanese-style izakaya in Cupertino. It was nice and filling. We even fit in an hour of karaoke next door before our name was called off the wait list.
My last event in the Bay Area was a little brunch with some of my friends from Brown. BH and I drove up to Palo Alto to meet RH, JH and JC. I had a nice scallop omelette with a mimosa. It was just perfect.
There are some things that I just don’t like about the Bay Area. I don’t like all the long bridges over the Bay. I really don’t like the thought of earthquakes, either.
But, those concerns are balanced by many things. The weather out there is simply beautiful. It was in the high seventies and sunny every day. The food fresh, delicious and well-priced (so much better than the stuff that passes for restaurant meals in DC). Plus, it’s probably where the highest concentration of my college friends live.
This was really awesome trip. I got to enjoy beautiful weather (it’s been raining in DC for the last two weeks straight). I got to drink great wine and eat delicious food. Plus, I got to catch up with lots of old friends. Can’t ask for much more.
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